Hydraulic Trailer Brake Troubleshooting

Recognising Symptoms

Trailer-side indicators include longer stopping distances, delayed engagement from the surge coupling or EOH actuator, the trailer pushing the tow vehicle, uneven wheel temperatures after a stop or a single wheel dragging or locking.

Weak or Inconsistent Braking

Air in the lines, aged fluid or a failing actuator can reduce clamp force. Inspect for leaks, top up the reservoir and bleed from the furthest caliper first. Verify that the surge coupling compresses correctly or that the EOH actuator responds to the controller’s manual override.

Brakes Not Engaging Properly

Confirm pressure generation at the coupling or actuator and check for blocked or kinked hoses or copper pipes. Ensure caliper pistons move freely and pads are serviceable. Replace worn pads, free sticky slide pins and re-bleed to restore response. Consider upgrading from copper pipe to steel banjo hoses.

Uneven Braking or Trailer Pulling

Common causes include a sticking caliper, contaminated pads, trapped air on one side, a kinked copper pipe, or a partially collapsed hose. Service or replace the affected caliper, renew pads if contaminated and confirm equal flow during the bleed procedure.

Leaks and Fluid Loss

Check unions, hose crimps, the actuator, bleed screws and caliper seals for dampness. Replace damaged hoses and copper washers and torque fittings correctly. Do not tow with active leaks as braking performance will be compromised.

Repair vs Replace

When multiple components are tired, a matched system can be more reliable and economical than piecemeal fixes. Consider a complete hydraulic brake kit if calipers, discs, hoses and the actuator all show age-related wear.

Parts and Help

Source replacement hydraulic calipers, hoses and fittings, surge couplings and EOH actuators to restore performance. Our team can help with selection and bleed procedures for your specific setup.

Troubleshooting FAQs

Why does my trailer pull to one side when braking?

Uneven clamp force from a sticking caliper, contaminated pads, trapped air or a restricted hose can cause the pull. Service the caliper, replace affected pads and bleed until fluid flow is even and bubble-free.

The trailer brakes feel weak even after bleeding. What next?

Inspect the actuator output and confirm the surge coupling stroke or EOH actuator duty matches specification. Check for internal leaks at caliper seals and unions, verify pad condition and ensure there are no hose restrictions.

One wheel is running hot. What should I check?

Heat at one wheel suggests a dragging caliper, misaligned slides or contaminated pads. Service or replace the caliper, ensure slides are free and confirm the hose is not internally collapsed.